IF14-II – Setup Explanation

- IF14-II - Setup Explanation -

Suspension Inserts

From Viktor Wilck

Update and explanation about new integrated item in IF14-2 car kit.

One of my favorite new setup option on the new car is the adjustable angle of the shocks with different inserts.

With these very precise insert you can fine tune youâ€™re setup very easily with direct effect on the track. This is one the settings I changed a lot in TITC race and could fine very good balance of the car.

The upper mount (Alu Shock Mount Bushing) you can adjust the angle on the shock towers by 0 / 0.4 / 0.8 / 1.2mm

Part no

T222-0 0mm (include kit)

T222-0.4 0.4mm (option part)

T222-0.8 0.8mm (option part)

T222-1.2 1.2mm (option part)

My feeling Front shocks:

-> to the outside, more high speed steering, little less low speed steering

to outside, more stable on power

The lower mount (Alu Suspension plate) you can adjust the lower angle of youâ€™re shocks on the wishbone by 0 / 0.4 / 0.8 / 1.2mm

Part no

T182-0 0mm (include kit)

T182-0.4 0.4mm (include kit)

T182-0.8 0.8mm (option part)

T182-1.2 1.2mm (option part)

My feeling Front shocks:

-> to the outside, more high speed steering, little less low speed steering

to the outside, less steering in low speed, but more rotation steering on power

My favourite settings in TITC race:

Alu Shock mount Bushing

Front: 0.4 -> outside

Rear: 0.4 outside

Rear: 0.4mm

Alu Shock Mount Bushing 0.4mm

Part no T222-0.4

Alu Suspension Plate 0.8mm

part no T182-0.8

Alu Shock Mount (red)

T222-0 0mm (include kit)

T222-0.4 0.4mm (option part)

T222-0.8 0.8mm (option part)

T222-1.2 1.2mm (option part)

Alu Suspension Plate (black)

T182-0 0mm (include kit)

T182-0.4 0.4mm (include kit)

T182-0.8 0.8mm (option part)

Screw setup IF14-2

I would like to recommend different screws for your kit. Different screw can give different flex and weight of youâ€™re car.

Mainly I use two different setups

Aluminum chassis

Top deck -> Aluminium screw red (option)

Chassis -> Titanium screw (option)

Carbon chassis

Top deck -> Titanium screw (option)

Chassis -> Steel screw black (kit)

Top deck

Most flex -> Aluminium screw red (option)

More flex -> Titanium screw (option

Less Flex -> Steel screw (kit)

Chassis

More flex -> Titanium screw (option)

Less Flex -> Steel screw (kit)

Part No

T244 - IF14-2 Titanium screw set

T246 - IF14-2 Titanium / Aluminum screw set (red)

Aluminium & Titanium Screws

Explained by Jilles... where to use Alu ones, where to prefer the Titanium material... Steel screws to forget or we can use for different effects???

PRS / Passive Rear Steering

From Andy Moore

PRS stands for â€œPassive rear steeringâ€� and is essentially a system to increase, decrease or maintain static toe during the stroke of the rear suspension arm. The system uses a new aluminium C-Hub style upright together with a steering knuckle which is linked to a fixed position on the RF suspension block.

While the PRS system is usually best suited to high speed/flowing asphalt tracks it can also be tuned to suit all tracks and conditions.

How is it different to the standard rear end...

The slight increase in weight over the rear section of the car will generally increase the rotation and steering, while the angle of the link controls the amount of toe increase or decrease you are looking to achieve in a given track condition.

The pictures attached show the difference in link angle. In Fig 1 the link has more angle (no shims at the outside ball position) and will produce more toe increase and grip. Depending on track conditions this could allow for a more aggressive setup to be used. Fig 2 shows less angle (shims added) and will produce minimal toe change during suspension stroke and free up your car giving more corner speed.

Rear Chassis Flex

From Akio Sobue

Rear side chassis flex will be held at "Graphite rear chassis extensions" equipped from IF14- 2.

The characteristics of this part with shape like cross can be adjusted to the horizontal and vertical chassis flex (Chassis Stiffness) each.

First of all, if you screw only 2 places same as the Morag Theory.

The chassis flex is suppressed, and the traction in the side is better when you put the power in it.

The next time you stop the screws, the traction will be better, and the kick to the front will be strong. The Rear Vertical Stiffness (Pitching Stiffness) is going up, so I tend to push the front tire.

And if you remove the graphite rear chassis Steph. The rear roll speed is fast, and the rear circling is fast for the start of the steering wheel. I think it's a valid setting in a lot of small corner course layout etc.

Finally, my basic set is only 2 in the side. We also remove motor mounts and fixed screws. This set is a good balance of traction and the balance of rear circling.

By changing the chassis flex around the rear in the setting of this graphite rear chassis extensions, the movement of the car changes greatly. Don't change the other settings, change the settings here and experience the changes in the car movement!

T-Brace Stiffener

Steering Plate

Suspension Blocks

Aluminium Spool Outdrives

Differential Break-In

Timelapse Chassis Change

Droop measure

Here two examples how to measure it. On our IF14-2 setup sheet you find two ways.

One is using regular droop gauge with 10mm blocks and you measure under the suspension arm( usually between 4 and 5mm in the rear).

The other way is to measure it with a caliper and measure from the ground to the middle of the pin. This measurement is 3.5mm difference with the same droop.

For example on our setup sheet you can fill in the droop measures under the suspension arm in the rear is 4mm. Then measured with the caliper from the ground to the middle of the pin itâ€™s 7.5mm.

**Droop and Downstop settings shown and explained by Jilles Groskamp
**

Shock Assembly Tips

Shocks

Shocks Piston Position

Shocks Tilt Angle

IF14-2TE How to Build New USP2 Shock by Jin Sawada

IF14-2TE New Shock Build Tips by Naoto Matsukura

Layshaft Assembly

Graphite Front Body Post Support

Chassis Comparison

Floating Mount Holder

Balance

Graphite Options

Topdeck Tuning

Motormount

Ackermann effect

Shorty Battery Holder

Tweak Matter

HBP Body Mount Tips (#T265â€‹-#T268â€‹)

Adjustable Rear Horizontal Body Post Mount Set

Horizontal Body Post mount by Jilles Groskamp

Body Position

Setup Talks

Wheel Hex

Setup Indoor vs Outdoor

Belt Tension

By Kotonori Fujiwara

This time, I will add an explanation to the contents of the video, and I will explain the adjustment of the belt tension of IF14-II

In IF14-II usually, the tension of the drive belt before and after is adjusted by rotating the eccentric bearing holder (eccentric bearing holder) to a certain angle.

The tension of the front and back drive belt affects the throttle feeling and also affects the feeling of the whole car. How much tension you use the drive belt before and after is changed depending on the power source and driving style you use, so if you can adjust it, you can finish it to your favorite car. Yes.

In IF14-II countries, the front is an option and the belt tensioner is prepared, and you can adjust the feeling of the front drive belt by preventing the tension of the belt, and preventing the pokey at the time of the run.

However, as for the rear, you can only adjust the tension with the eccentric bearing holder, and sometimes you can't adjust it to your favorite belt tension.

What should I do in that case?

Rear belt tensioner is equipped in front of rear def in IF14-II But this tensioner has no tension adjustment mechanism.

But you can use this tensioner with a little idea to adjust the tension of the rear drive belt.

Eccentric Bearing Holder adjusts somewhat belt tension to loose condition. And between the rear belt tensioner and the main chassis, the rear belt tensioner position is high across the sims of the 0.2 mm. This is how you can get excited about the rear drive belt, and you can adjust the tension of the rear drive belt.

At this time,
T199-0.2 Lower Suspension Block Spacer 0.2mm
If you use it, you can adjust the rear belt tension without removing the rear belt tension, and it is convenient.

However, when the rear belt tensioner position is too high, the refraction of the rear drive belt is getting bigger, and the powered loss is getting bigger. Under the rear belt tensioner, the sims are about to be a mm ~ a mm.

The drive belt is the character of the product, and there is an error in the belt length.

Even the same length belt is slightly different depending on the production lot, etc.

(this is not faulty, it is inevitable for product manufacture)

Also, the drive belt will grow slightly by running, so please make sure to check it out again after a certain amount of run.

A Solid-adjusted drive belt is a good driving feeling, and it's long lasting without a tooth fly.

The tension of your IF14-II drive belt, please adjust this for reference.

Graphite Brace