IIC - Las Vegas

The main difference between our setup and Ronalds was that he used Pink springs up front. We were running the pink almost the whole week, but once the grip began to reach ridiculous levels, they made the car more twitchy and prone to traction rolling so we ditched them in favour of the blue springs. We tested back to back on both cars during two seperate practice sessions, and Andrew preferred the way the car felt with the blue springs because he could drive the car much harder. In medium to low grip, I think the pinks are better(more corner speed) as the chance of traction rolling is much lower.

2 things, I see in the setup sheet it says you used the outer hole on the rear hub, is this correct?? This would make a longer rear link but not by the other bulkhead position. Also, the steering bridge, do you have it fitted to bell cranks alone or to topdeck as well?? I have a raceberry carbon plate for just across the bellcranks.

You are correct - long rear links. This makes the car more stable on corner entry and steer more middle off. Both Ronald and Andrew like to get on the power VERY early and we were struggling(Andrew) to get enough steering(especially onto the straight). Keep in mind that the whole setup works together so don't just try it once and expect it to work better...well sometimes you get lucky, but you know what I mean.

As for droop, I have always used "above ride height" way of measuring because it is stupid easy, and all you need is a ride height gauge - not everyone has droop blocks so they may not be able to accurately copy a setup of mine...oh and you don't need to take your wheels off!

So, for those who do not know what "above ride height" is:

1. Measure your rideheight.

2. Lift the end of the car you are working with(front/rear) by the shock tower and stop just before the tires come off the ground.

3. Now, measure again.

4. The difference bwteen the two measurements is your droop.

Important: The actualy numbers are only needed for recording purposes and to share setup information. When I tune the car, I am working off my base setting and not adjusting to a specific number. If I feel we need more rear droop for example, I will just take the wrench and turn the screws a 1/2 turn. After doing this more than twice, I will then, and only then, put it on the droop blocks to ensure the droop is equal left/right.

do you connect bridge to topdeck or leave top screw out???? And how would you word how the longer links fr and r make the car feel. Either long fr or long r or both long.

Yes, the screw is in.

Long front link: less initial turn-in, more steering middle off.

Note: Car will feel smoother and will be less likely to traction roll. Good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Not good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Generally speaking

Short front link: more initial turn-in, less steering middle off.

Note: Car will feel more sensitive and steer aggressively into the corner but will be more likely to traction roll. Good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Not good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Generally speaking

The rear is basically the same.

Long rear link: less initial turn-in, more steering middle off, and easier to drive.

Note: Car will feel smoother. Good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Not good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Generally speaking

Short rear link: more initial turn-in, less steering middle off. Makes the car very stable on power , especially on low grip tracks.

Note: Car will feel more sensitive and steer aggressively into the corner. Good for tracks with quick transitions(i.e chicanes) or tight corners. Not good for tracks with long sweeping corners. Generally speaking

Source: C. Whiteman